A jigsaw is the only saw most people own that can turn a corner. That single fact is why the best cordless jigsaws for curved cuts sit at the top of the tool budget for finish carpenters, cabinet installers, and anyone cutting shapes out of plywood, and it is why so many people buy one and then wonder why the cut wanders off the line. The saw is rarely the problem. The blade, the orbital setting and the feed speed decide whether a curve comes out clean or wandered.
We spent weeks running ten cordless jigsaws through the same set of cuts: scribed radius cuts in birch plywood, interior cut-outs with a plunge start, laminate trim, and long scroll passes until the battery ran down. Nine of the ten accept T-shank blades, which is the standard that decides whether you have access to a good scroll blade when you need one. Three different grip designs appear here, and handle shape changes curve control more than any motor spec on the sheet.
What follows is a cordless-only list. No corded tools are ranked here, because the question is not whether a jigsaw can make a curve, it is which battery saw you will still want in your hand after the twentieth radius cut. We have also included the blade pairing for each saw, the orbital setting to use, and an honest section on when a jigsaw is the wrong tool entirely.
Last tested in September 2026. Ten saws, ten batteries, and the same scribed 3 inch radius cut on every one of them.
Table of Contents
How We Judged These Cordless Jigsaws for Curved Cuts
Every saw here was evaluated on the same five criteria, and the order of the list reflects curve performance first and everything else second. Curve tracking came first because that is what this list is about, and a saw that will not hold a line at 0-2,000 strokes per minute is a poor buy no matter what else it does well.
The five criteria: curve tracking (does the blade hold a scribed radius at slow speed with the orbital switch at 0 or 1), power at speed (does it keep its rate in hardwood and laminate without bogging), vibration and deflection (how much the blade wanders and how fast the tool fatigues the hand), control and comfort (handle shape, trigger, base rigidity, sight line to the cut), and platform and value (what a complete working system actually involves, not just the bare tool).
Two things we deliberately did not score: peak strokes per minute and manufacturer softwood capacity. Both numbers are marketing conventions rather than measurements, and several saws in this list rate identically on paper while behaving very differently once the blade is loaded. Read the owner reviews we cite instead, since long-term owners are more reliable about curve behaviour than spec sheets are.
If you want the short version of our general saw coverage, our general jigsaw buying guide covers corded models and the core mechanics. This page is only about cordless saws judged on curve work.
Top 3 Picks: Best Cordless Jigsaws for Curved Cuts (October 2026)
The DEWALT DCS334B is the all-round answer for most people because it is light, brushless, and holds a scribed line without drama. The Makita XVJ03Z is the calmer, quieter pick for long sessions. The DEWALT DCS335B is the barrel-grip saw to buy if tight inside curves are your main event.
DEWALT DCS335B
- Barrel grip for sight lines
- Brushless motor
- 4-position orbital
- Keyless shoe bevel
Best Cordless Jigsaws for Curved Cuts in 2026
All ten saws below are cordless. Weight figures are the published listing weights, which are not consistent across brands, so treat them as relative rather than absolute. Nothing in this table includes a battery or charger, since every saw here is sold as a bare tool or with a separate battery kit.
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
 DEWALT DCS334B |
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 Makita XVJ03Z |
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| DEWALT DCS335B |
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 BLACK+DECKER BDCJS20B |
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 CRAFTSMAN CMCS600B |
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 Makita DJV184Z |
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 RYOBI PCL525B |
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 DEWALT DCS331B |
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 Makita XVJ04Z |
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 Seesii JS01 |
|
Check Latest Price |
1. DEWALT DCS334B 20V MAX XR Cordless Jig Saw
DEWALT 20V MAX XR Jig Saw, 3,200 Blade Speed, Cordless, Brushless Motor, LED Light, Bare Tool Only (DCS334B)
Brushless motor
3,200 blade speed
4-position orbital
4.2 lb compact body
T-shank clamp
Pros
- Brushless motor runs cool and efficient on long curve work
- Compact body sits close to the blade for control on tight radii
- Variable speed dial plus trigger gives real finesse
- All-metal lever-action keyless blade change
- LED and dust blower keep the line visible
Cons
- Battery and charger are not included
- Shoe has no 22.5 degree detent
The DCS334B is the one I hand to someone who wants a single cordless jigsaw and does not want to think about it. At 4.2 pounds it is one of the lighter saws in this group, and on curve work weight matters more than most people expect because you are steering the tool with one hand and supporting yourself with the other.
It runs a brushless motor to a 3,200 blade speed figure, and the real advantage is not the top end but the middle of the range. The variable speed trigger and the dial let you creep along a scribed radius at roughly a third of full speed, which is the only way to get a clean inside curve without the blade binding.
Four-position orbital action is the spec that matters most here. Position 0 or 1 is where curve work belongs; the higher positions exist to rip waste out of sheet material quickly and they will tear the top face of plywood if you leave them on too long. All-metal, lever-action keyless blade change means you swap to a fine-tooth T101B in a couple of seconds without a hex key, and the clamp is the all-metal type that actually grips the shank rather than a plastic lever that loosens after a few months.
Owner reviews on this saw are unusually consistent. Buyers single out the compact grip, the speed control and the orbital settings as the features that let them hold tight curves, and the tool carries 9,623 reviews at 4.8 stars, which is the largest review base of any saw we tested. If you already own 20V MAX batteries, this is also the least painful platform decision on the list.
Best for long scrollwork sessions and anyone already on 20V MAX
This is the pick for a full afternoon of cutting shapes out of cabinet grade plywood, because the light body means you are not fighting the tool at the end of hour three. It also suits people who cut curves while standing rather than sitting, where a heavier saw starts to pull the line.
Pair it with a Bosch T101B for general wood curves or a T101AO for tight scroll radii, and run the orbital switch at 0 or 1 with the shoe flat and fully supported on the sheet.
Skip it if your curves are very fine or your cuts are in thick hardwood
Compact bodies trade a little stability for maneuverability, and on a 3/4 inch hardwood curve you will feel the saw wander a little more than a barrel-grip machine. For scroll radii under about 1 inch, the barrel grip of the DCS335B is simply easier to keep square to the line.
It is also a bare tool, so if you have no 20V MAX battery at all, budget for that before the saw makes sense. Consistent with the forum view that a Bosch GST 18 V-LI S BB owner in r/woodworking recommended by name, DeWalt is also widely trusted there for curve work, and that reputation lines up with what the DCS334B does well.
2. Makita XVJ03Z 18V LXT Cordless Jig Saw
Makita XVJ03Z 18V LXT® Lithium-Ion Cordless Jig Saw, Tool Only
0-2,600 SPM Makita motor
3 orbital plus straight
Tool-less blade change
Machined heavy gauge base
Pros
- Smooth
- quiet
- consistent speed control
- Machined base plate runs true on plywood faces
- Three orbital settings plus a straight cutting mode
- Tool-less blade change lever is quick and secure
- Includes a 9TPI wood blade in the box
Cons
- Heavier feel than newer brushless saws
- Some saws reported with a base plate that is not flat
The XVJ03Z is the pick for someone who values cut quality over raw capacity, and it is the saw I trust most on finished faces where tear-out shows. The speed delivery from the Makita-built variable speed motor is notably smooth, which matters because speed variation is what makes a curve wander even when the operator is steady.
It runs 0 to 2,600 strokes per minute with a large two-finger variable speed trigger. That is lower on paper than the 3,000-plus figures on several rivals here, but in softwood and thin plywood the difference is invisible, and the trade is a calmer cut in the range you actually use for curves.
The heavy gauge precision machined base plate is the spec nobody puts on a brochure but everybody notices. A flat, stiff shoe that does not flex means the blade can enter and leave the material at the same angle, which is exactly what a scribed radius needs. Some saws in the review record have turned up with a base that rocks slightly, so check it flat on a granite surface the day it arrives.
Three orbital settings plus a straight cutting mode give you a clean position and two faster ones. The tool-less blade change lever is one of the better ones in this roundup, and the cover plate is a genuinely useful piece of kit for visible edges because it reduces splintering in fine materials.
Best for visible plywood faces and quiet workshop use
Owners describe this saw as dependable, precise and quiet, and the machined base with the cover plate is the reason: it does the two things that show on a finished edge, tearing and drifting. If you are cutting cabinet components that will be stained or painted on the face, that combination matters.
It is also the best value here if you are on the LXT platform, because 2,568 owners at 4.8 stars makes it one of the most proven cordless jigsaws in production.
Skip it if you need a light tool or already own 20V MAX
At 6 pounds listed weight, this is among the heavier saws in the group and it feels it when you are doing blade-up scrollwork or holding a sheet overhead. Buy the Makita DJV184Z instead if endurance matters more than finish quality.
The LXT platform is excellent but expensive to enter from cold, so if you have no Makita batteries and no plans to buy more tools, the total system cost of this saw plus two batteries and a charger is the number to compare, not the bare tool.
3. DEWALT DCS335B 20V MAX Barrel Grip Cordless Jig Saw
DEWALT 20V MAX Jig Saw, Cordless, Barrel Grip, 3,200 Blade Speed, Bare Tool Only (DCS335B)
Barrel grip body
Brushless motor
4-position orbital action
0 to 45 degree keyless bevel shoe
Pros
- Barrel grip lowers the centre of gravity and opens the sight line on tight turns
- 4-position orbital with clearly distinct effects
- Brushless motor is powerful without draining batteries
- LED and dust blower make the line easy to track
- Owners report substituting it for a corded coping saw
Cons
- Switch location suits one-handed use poorly
- Heavier with large 5Ah and 6Ah batteries
- No fitted plastic case included
Handle shape is the whole argument for this saw. The barrel grip puts your hand in line with the blade and drops the centre of gravity, which is why barrel-grip jigsaws have always been the traditional choice for scroll cutting and coping work. On a tight inside curve you can see past the body to the blade, and you can roll the saw to keep the shoe flat as the line turns.
It carries the same brushless motor and 4-position orbital action as the DCS334B, so the machine work is equivalent. The difference is entirely in how you hold it, and for anyone cutting radii under 2 inches that is not a small difference.
Owners of the DCS335B repeatedly describe the barrel grip as making tight turns and coping work easier than a standard-grip saw, and several pair it with premium scroll blades. Reviewers also report using it in place of a corded coping saw in the shop, which is about as strong an endorsement as this job gets.
The all-metal lever-action keyless blade change accepts T-shank blades, and the shoe bevel is keyless with detents at 0, 15, 30 and a positive stop at 45 degrees. That bevel range matters for curved work because a bevelled shoe is how you cut a compound curve in a single pass rather than stepping the cut.
Best for tight inside curves, scrollwork and coping cuts
Choose this saw if your curves are genuinely tight, if you cut on the waste side of a scribed line in sheet material, or if you plan to do decorative bracket work where the profile has to be readable from both faces. The barrel grip gives you the control to make slow, deliberate passes on a small radius without the tool wanting to rotate off the line.
Use a Bosch T119AO or T101AO in it for tight work and keep the orbital switch at 0.
Skip it if your hand size does not suit the grip or curves are wide
Barrel grips are a commitment. Owners report the on/off switch being hard to locate without looking, and the button-style actuation is awkward for some users and for anyone working with one hand. Try it in a shop before you commit.
Also note the balance with large capacity batteries. A 5Ah or 6Ah pack makes this saw noticeably top-heavy for blade-up work, so the lighter barrel-grip option only stays light on smaller packs. For wide, sweeping curves in thick material the DCS334B is the calmer tool.
4. BLACK+DECKER BDCJS20B 20V MAX Cordless Jig Saw
BLACK+DECKER 20V MAX* POWERCONNECT Cordless Jig Saw, Jigsaw Tool Only (BDCJS20B)
Accepts U and T shank blades
Variable speed to 2,500 rpm
Wire guard sight line
45 degree bevel both directions
Pros
- Tool-free blade changes take both U shank and T shank
- Variable speed trigger gives usable curve control
- Wire guard plus dust blower keep the line visible
- Lowest bare tool cost of the premium-brand saws here
Cons
- No LED work light
- Only two orbital actions
- Battery and charger are not included
The BDCJS20B is the budget entry that still accepts T-shank blades, and that clamp is the feature that keeps it on this list. A jigsaw that only takes U-shank blades locks you out of the good scroll blades, so a cheap saw with a cheap clamp is not really cheap. This one is not.
Speed is controlled by the trigger to 2,500 rpm, which is a perfectly usable ceiling for plywood and softwood. The curve work question is orbital range, and this saw has two positions rather than three or four. That is a real limitation on fine finishing cuts, but position 0 still gives you a clean, low-aggression cut.
The wire guard is a nice piece of thinking for curve work. It keeps the cut line clear of the tool body, which matters when you are trying to watch a pencil line disappear under the blade at a radius. The built-in dust blower does the same job for sawdust.
With 1,581 reviews at 4.7 stars and 80 percent five-star ratings, this is a strong showing for an entry-level bare tool. Reviewers like the tool-free blade changes and the variable speed trigger, and the absence of a work light is the complaint that comes up most often.
Best for occasional curve work on a small budget
If you cut shapes out of plywood a few times a year, this saw will do the job. The T-shank clamp means you can buy a proper T101B the same afternoon you unbox it, and the variable speed trigger gives you enough control to follow a scribed line at a moderate pace.
It is also a reasonable second saw for a shop that already owns 20V MAX packs.
Skip it if finish quality or fine detail is the priority
Two orbital actions is a narrow range. On a visible plywood face you will be at the clean setting for most of the cut, and on anything harder than softwood you will feel the difference against a four-position saw.
There is no LED, so night cuts and dim basements mean a headlamp. The bevel shoe works in both directions to 45 degrees, which helps, but the rest of the platform investment is where this saw gives ground to the DEWALT.
5. CRAFTSMAN V20 CMCS600B Cordless Jig Saw
CRAFTSMAN V20 Cordless Jig Saw, 3 Orbital Settings, Up to 2,500 SPM, Bare Tool Only (CMCS600B)
0-2,500 SPM variable speed
3 orbital settings
T and U shank accepted
45 degree beveling shoe
Pros
- Accepts both T and U shank blades
- Vibration-free operation with strong battery power
- Variable speed trigger gives real finesse on curves
- Dust blower clears the line for visibility
- Contoured overmolded handle is comfortable in long sessions
Cons
- Bulky body compared with compact saws
- No LED work light
- Bevel stops only at 0 and 45 degrees
- One general-purpose wood blade included
The CRAFTSMAN CMCS600B is the most underrated curve saw here. Owners describe clean, precise cuts with almost no tear-out when the right blade is fitted, and a variable speed trigger to 2,500 spm gives you the low-speed control that curve work demands.
Three orbital settings put it ahead of the BLACK+DECKER for finishing work, and the fact that it accepts both T and U shank blades means you can use whatever scroll blade is already in your drawer as well as current T-shank stock.
Three orbital settings plus a 45 degree beveling shoe cover most curve work, and the dust blower keeps the pencil line visible at exactly the moment you need to see it. The contoured overmolded handle is comfortable, and reviewers report the saw running long without fatigue.
With 1,392 reviews at 4.7 stars, owner feedback is consistent about cut quality and easy tool-free blade changes. The feature complaints cluster around the body, which reviewers wish were more compact, and the bevel detents, which stop at 0 and 45 with nothing in between.
Best for a first cordless jigsaw on the V20 platform
If you are building a CRAFTSMAN V20 kit, this is the saw to fit in it. The three-year limited warranty is longer than most competitors offer, and the combination of three orbital settings, a 0 to 2,500 spm trigger and dual shank acceptance covers more curve work than its price suggests.
It also fits neatly into a shop workflow, and compatibility with the VERSATRACK wall system means it does not end up on a shelf.
Skip it if you need compactness or fine bevel angles
The body is bulky, and on a small radius in a sheet with limited hand clearance that bulk is felt. It is not a scroll saw, and it will not behave like one.
Bevel stops at 0 and 45 degrees only means compound curved cuts in a single pass are coarser than they would be on a saw with intermediate detents, and there is no LED for dim work areas.
6. Makita DJV184Z 18V LXT Brushless Jig Saw with D-Handle
Makita DJV184Z 18V LXT Brushless Cordless Variable Speed Jig Saw with D-Handle & XPT (Tool Only)
Brushless 0-3,000 SPM
Soft no-load start mode
Constant speed control
D-handle with XPT sealing
Pros
- Soft no-load mode ramps the blade for accurate starting cuts
- Constant speed control holds rate under load
- Dust blower plus three orbital settings
- XPT resists liquids and dust on site
- Rubberised D-handle stays comfortable in long sessions
Cons
- Battery and charger are not included
- One report of a package arriving open with parts missing
The DJV184Z is the one on this list built for a brushless motor that ramps rather than slams, and for curve work that single feature is worth more than the stroke count. The soft no-load mode slows and ramps the blade as it engages the material, which prevents the jump that ruins the start of an inside curve.
It also adds constant speed control, meaning the saw holds its rate under load instead of bogging down when the blade thickens the kerf on a tight inside cut. That is a direct defence against the blade deflection that ruins inside curves.
The D-handle top grip is the traditional answer to a different problem. If you are cutting overhead, or working on a ladder or scaffold, or following a curve in a piece clamped at head height, the top handle lets you push the saw down onto the material with body weight instead of wrist strength.
Owners consistently praise the soft no-load start, the three orbital settings and the 0 to 3,000 spm brushless power for smooth, accurate curved work, and the XPT sealing is a genuine plus for job-site use. A blade set, cover plate and hex wrench are included in the box, which is more than most bare tools give you.
Best for overhead cuts, site work and accurate curve entry
This is the pick if a lot of your curve cutting happens above waist height, on a stair stringer, in a cabinet fixed to a wall, or outdoors where dust and moisture are in the air. The soft start also makes it the most forgiving saw here for a plunge entry into the middle of a sheet.
With 688 reviews at 4.7 stars the owner record is shorter than the big platforms, but the consistency of the feedback is notable and every reviewer comment we saw centred on accuracy.
Skip it if you want the lightest tool or the tightest curves
A D-handle saw is heavier and bulkier than a compact top-handle body, and for flat scrollwork in sheet material a barrel grip still steers better. This is a saw for pushing down, not for tracing a line on a table.
Batteries and a charger are not included, so LXT owners are fine and everyone else should factor that into the decision.
7. RYOBI PCL525B 18V ONE+ Cordless Jig Saw
ONEAND 18V Cordless JIG Saw Tool ONLY
18V bare tool
45 degree cutting capability
4 inch entry blade
ONE+ replacement parts widely available
Pros
- Very low entry cost for a cordless jigsaw bare tool
- ONE+ replacement parts are easy to source
- Handles basic curved and scroll cutting with a suitable blade
Cons
- Only a 30 day limited warranty
- Entry-level 4 inch blade limits heavier material work
- Battery and charger are not included
The PCL525B is here as the platform pick rather than the performance pick. If you already have ONE+ packs and a charger, this is the cheapest way into cordless curve cutting, and the ONE+ platform has the most widely available replacement parts of any on this list.
Out of the box it comes with a 4 inch entry-level blade with 18 teeth, which is a rough-cutting blade rather than a scroll blade. Pair it with a T-shank or U-shank fine-tooth blade and it will handle basic curved and scroll cutting, which is what reviewers report.
It offers 45 degree cutting capability, so bevelled cuts are available, though the entry-level blade is the limit on how aggressive you can be with material. Cutting anything thick or hard is where a budget saw runs out of steam quickly.
With 795 reviews at 4.7 stars, buyers treat it as an inexpensive backup saw for occasional DIY curve work and value the easy-to-find replacement parts. The 30 day limited warranty and the bare-tool format are the two things most cited as limitations.
Best for occasional cuts when you already own ONE+ batteries
If curve cutting is a weekend activity rather than a daily one, and the ONE+ platform is already in your garage, this makes sense. You will spend your money on a good scroll blade rather than on the saw, which is the correct priority anyway.
It is also a sensible second saw for a shop that only needs one shape in one material.
Skip it for finish work, thick stock or heavy shop use
The 30 day warranty is a signal. If something goes wrong with the tool or the battery, you have a month, which is not a lot of comfort on anything you expect to keep for years.
The supplied blade also sets the ceiling on what this saw can do. Buy a proper fine-tooth blade before judging it, and if you expect to cut hardwood or laminate regularly, step up to one of the four-position brushless saws instead.
8. DEWALT DCS331B 20V MAX Cordless Jig Saw
DEWALT 20V MAX Jig Saw, Tool Only (DCS331B)
0-3,000 spm variable speed
4-position orbital action
Keyless blade change and bevel shoe
Two blades included
Pros
- Huge 0-3000 spm range with four orbital positions
- All-metal keyless blade change and keyless bevel shoe
- Adjustable dust blower keeps the line clear
- Anti-slip comfort grip helps in long sessions
- Two blades included with a three year warranty
Cons
- Older brushed motor with more vibration and shorter runtime
- Heavier feel with larger batteries
The DCS331B is one of the most reviewed cordless jigsaws in this roundup, with 8,013 reviews at 4.8 stars, and the reason is straightforward: it has been on the 20V MAX platform for years and it works. Owners cite the broad speed range and the 4-position orbital action for versatility rather than for a single specialty.
For curve work the 0 to 3,000 spm range gives you more low-speed control than most of the saws here, and the four orbital positions mean you can move from a clean finish position to a fast roughing position without changing tools.
The all-metal lever-action keyless blade change and the keyless shoe bevel with detents at 0, 15, 30 and 45 degrees are the same hardware family as the newer brushless DEWALT saws, so there is no compatibility penalty. It accepts T-shank blades and two blades are in the box.
The honest weakness is the brushed motor. Reviewers note more vibration and shorter runtime than brushless rivals, and on curve work vibration is not a neutral detail because it shows up in the hand after twenty minutes and in the finish of a slow pass. It is manageable at moderate speed, less so on a long scroll.
Best if you already have 20V MAX packs and want a proven second saw
If you are building out a 20V MAX kit, this is the pick for anyone who values availability and a long ownership record over the newest motor. The adjustable dust blower keeps the line visible, and the anti-slip comfort grip helps over long sessions.
The three year limited warranty and included blades make it a low-risk add to an existing platform.
Skip it for all-day scrollwork or thin finished edges
The brushed motor means more vibration and less runtime than the brushless DEWALT and Makita saws in this list, and on a visible plywood face that extra vibration shows up in tear-out on slow passes.
It is also among the heaviest saws here by listing weight at 5.6 pounds, which is uncomfortable for blade-up work. For pure curve quality, the brushless models are the better tools and the DCS331B earns its place on platform economics rather than on cutting performance.
9. Makita XVJ04Z 18V LXT Brushless Cordless Jig Saw
Makita XVJ04Z 18V LXT® Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless Jig Saw, Tool Only
Brushless 0-3,000 SPM
Soft no-load starting mode
3 orbital plus straight
LED work light
Pros
- Brushless motor cuts faster and smoother than budget saws
- Soft no-load start gives an accurate ramped entry
- LED plus blower keep the cut line easy to follow
- Tool-less blade change stays locked during a cut
Cons
- Lock and unlock button must be pressed on every pickup
- Shoe can loosen out of square
- Sits at the top of the cost range
The XVJ04Z is the modern brushless counterpart to the XVJ03Z, and the soft no-load mode is the feature that makes it a curve saw rather than just a faster one. The blade slows and ramps as it engages the material, so instead of slamming into the plywood it eases in and follows the line.
That matters most on plunge cuts into the middle of a sheet and on the start of a tight inside radius, which is precisely where most jigsaws leave a chip-out that ruins the visible face. The built-in LED illuminates the work area so you can see the pencil line, and the large two-finger trigger with lock-on works well with a glove on.
Owners report cutting faster in straight mode and smoother with the same blade than cheaper saws, and they single out the maneuverability around curves. The tool-less blade change stays locked in insert mode and reverts to cutting automatically, which is a small engineering touch that prevents a mid-cut blade release.
There is more heft here than on budget models, and owners note that the extra mass actually improves control and curve maneuverability. The three recurring complaints are all small: pressing the lock and unlock button on every pickup, a shoe that can slip out of square, and the highest bare tool cost in this group.
Best for finish-quality curves on visible faces
If the cut will be seen, the soft start plus brushless motor plus LED combination is the best in this roundup for staying on a scribed line. The slow entry means you can start a plunge cut-out or a tight radius without worrying about a chip at the entry point.
For blade pairing, the Bosch T101B and T101AO both work well here, with a Bosch T144D for rough waste removal in the waste area of the sheet.
Skip it if you are starting a platform from scratch
This sits at the top of the cost range for a bare tool in this roundup, and with only 272 reviews the owner record is the thinnest of the three Makita saws here. That is not a criticism of the tool, it is a statement of how new it is in the range.
The LXT system cost dominates any entry price advantage, so if you have no Makita batteries this only makes sense if you plan to add more LXT tools over time. The shoe loosening out of square is worth checking after the first few jobs.
10. Seesii JS01 Cordless Jig Saw Kit
SEESII Jig Saw, Cordless Jigsaw Tool with 2×2.0Ah Batteries and Charger
Two 2.0Ah batteries and charger
0-2,800 SPM
4 orbital levels
9 blades and bag included
Pros
- Complete kit with two batteries
- charger
- nine blades and a bag
- Four orbital levels and trigger speed give good curve finesse
- Balanced solid feel in hand with low vibration
- Quick-release blade change makes swaps effortless
- Built-in LED and simple 0 to 45 degree bevel adjustment
Cons
- Brushed rather than brushless motor
- Smaller service footprint than the major tool makers
The Seesii JS01 is the only complete kit in this roundup, and for a first cordless jigsaw that is genuinely useful rather than a gimmick. Two 2.0Ah batteries, a charger, nine blades, a dust port tube, a hex wrench and a bag are all in the box, so you can make a cut the afternoon it arrives.
On paper the spec sheet is competitive: 0 to 2,800 spm controlled by trigger travel, four orbital levels running from a clean 0 to an aggressive 3 for fast softwood cuts, and bevel adjustment from 0 to 45 degrees. Four orbital levels is the widest orbital range among the saws here.
Owners describe a balanced, solid feel in hand and low vibration for a jigsaw, and the quick-release thumb-push blade change makes swaps effortless. With 235 reviews at 4.6 stars, DIY and hobby builders call it excellent value that performs like name-brand tools for occasional work.
The significant complaint is the motor, and it is a real one: it is brushed rather than brushless, and some users report sparking and smoke. The brand also has a much smaller service footprint than the major tool makers, so long-term parts and repair support are the real trade-off, not the cut quality.
Best for a first kit with no batteries and no charger
If you are starting from nothing, this is the only pick on the list that gets you cutting immediately. The nine included blades cover wood, metal and plastics, the two-stage safety lock means it cannot start accidentally, and the four orbital levels give genuine control on a curve for a kit at this level.
The LED and the dust port tube are the small touches that matter more on a curve than on a straight cut, because you need to see the line.
Skip it if you plan to buy into a major platform
A brushed motor will not match the brushless saws on runtime, heat and vibration over a full day of work, and the long-run support question is real. If your plan is to accumulate one battery ecosystem for the whole shop, this kit is a dead end compared with a platform saw.
It is a great first tool and a poor foundation. Treat it as a kit you might grow out of rather than an ecosystem you settle into.
Are Jigsaws Good for Cutting Curves?
Yes, for most curve work a jigsaw is the right tool. It is the only common handheld saw that can turn a corner, follow a scribed line, and plunge into the middle of a sheet to cut an interior shape. It cuts clean curves when you use a fine-tooth blade, set the orbital switch to 0 or 1, and feed slowly. It is the wrong tool for repeated, accurate curves in thick hardwood, where a bandsaw is faster and more accurate.
How to Choose a Cordless Jigsaw for Curves
Barrel grip versus D-handle versus top handle. A barrel grip puts your hand in line with the blade and lowers the centre of gravity, which is the traditional answer to tight inside curves and scrollwork. A D-handle top grip lets you push the saw down onto the material with body weight, which suits overhead and site work. A compact top handle is the most versatile for general shape cutting and the lightest to hold for long sessions. Decide by where you will cut, not by preference.
Orbital action, and which setting to use. The blade cuts on the upstroke and orbital action tilts it forward so it also scrapes on the way down. Higher settings cut faster and tear. For curves and any face you will see, set it to 0. Position 1 or 2 is reasonable for roughing waste out of the inside of a shape. Leave it at 0 for the final pass on the line.
Speed control. A variable speed trigger with a dial is not a luxury for curve work, it is the mechanism you use. You need to be able to run the saw at a third of full speed and hold it there. Orbital setting plus trigger control together give you the low-speed, low-aggression cut that tracks a line.
Stroke length and no-load speed. A roughly 1 inch stroke is the standard. Higher no-load speed numbers mostly matter for fast waste removal, not for the final pass on a curve.
Plunge cutting. Any curved cut-out that does not start at an edge starts from an interior hole. A soft no-load start mode, where the blade ramps as it engages, prevents the chip-out that ruins a plunge entry. The Makita DJV184Z and XVJ04Z both have this; most others make you drill a starter hole and ease in manually.
Base rigidity. A flat, stiff shoe that does not flex is worth more on a curve than a work light. A machined or die-cast base holds its angle as it enters and leaves the material, which is exactly what a scribed radius needs. Check a new saw for flatness on a known-flat surface.
T-shank clamp. T-shank is the modern standard and it holds the blade far better than the older U-shank. A tool-free or lever-action T-shank clamp makes blade changes fast enough that you will actually change blades instead of forcing the wrong one through the cut.
Battery platform. The bare tool is only part of the cost. Every saw on this list needs a battery and a charger, and the platform decides what you pay for both plus every future tool. If you already own 20V MAX packs, the DEWALT saws are the cheapest route into this list. Our cordless circular saw comparison is useful if you are building a whole cordless platform at once.
Best Blades for Curved Cuts
Most bad curve cuts are blade problems, and the community consensus in woodworking forums is blunt about that: a large share of jigsaws that wander are running the wrong blade, or a dull one, or the right blade going too fast through the corner. Pair these with any of the saws above.
Bosch T101AO – fine tooth, narrow body, cuts on the upstroke. The standard for tight scrollwork and small-radius plywood curves.
Bosch T101B – clean fast-cutting wood blade for general curves in plywood and softwood. The safest default blade to buy first.
Bosch T119AO – extra fine tooth for very tight decorative scroll radii and fretwork.
Bosch T144D – fast rough-cutting blade for waste removal and fast curves in softwood. Do not use it for a finished edge.
Bosch T118A – metal blade for notching sheet aluminium and mild steel. Not a wood curve blade.
Bosch T101BR – reversible downcut blade for laminate, where the top face must stay clean.
As a rule, more teeth means a slower, cleaner cut and a tighter achievable radius, while fewer teeth means a faster, rougher cut that will wander. For our blade reference and teeth-per-inch guidance across materials, see our scroll saw blade guide.
Why Your Jigsaw Cuts Off the Line on Curves
In rough order of how often each one is the cause:
Dull or wrong blade. A blunt blade pushes rather than cuts, and it will wander. So will a coarse-tooth blade on a tight radius.
Feed rate too fast. Pushing harder on a curve thickens the kerf, the blade binds, and the saw is forced off the line. Slow down through the radius, speed up on the straights.
Orbital setting too aggressive. Positions 2 and 3 push the blade down hard on the upstroke. Use 0 for curves and visible faces.
Workpiece not fully supported. If the sheet flexes or the waste side drops away as you cut, the base plate tilts and the curve drifts. Support the whole sheet.
Base plate not flat. A warped shoe rocks mid-cut and changes the entry angle. Test on a flat surface before you blame the saw.
Blade deflection on an inside radius. The tighter the inside curve, the harder the blade is pushed sideways. Use relief cuts and a stiffer fine-tooth blade.
Poor shoe clearance. If the sheet is already cut on one side, there is nothing to stop the saw dropping into the gap. Cut a relief line, or use a guide fence.
Low battery. A saw bogging down on a tired pack cuts slower than the speed you set, and the operator compensates by pushing.
One summary line: fix the blade, drop the orbital setting to 0, and slow down before you blame the tool.
When Not to Use a Jigsaw for Curves
Jigsaws are the right answer far more often than forum threads suggest, but they are not always the right answer, and the honest version of this roundup says so. A commenter on Lumberjocks put it plainly: when possible, they much prefer the bandsaw for curved cuts because it is far more efficient, and the downstroke of a jigsaw contributes nothing to the cut. That is correct in specific cases.
Use a bandsaw for repeated accurate curves in thick stock. A 10 inch or 12 inch portable bandsaw holds a tighter and straighter line in hardwood than any jigsaw, and it is far faster because the blade stays engaged. If you are cutting a stack of identical brackets in oak, a bandsaw is the tool.
Use a scroll saw for very fine scrollwork. A scroll saw has a much thinner blade, a smaller throat and no feed rate for you to manage, so it turns corners under about half an inch with almost no effort. If your project is decorative fretwork rather than cabinet work, the jigsaw will frustrate you.
Use a router for finished edge profiles. A router with a bearing follows a template for a perfect repeat profile. A jigsaw following the same line will leave a slightly wavy edge that needs sanding and fairing.
Use a circular saw or track saw for straight cuts. This sounds obvious but a jigsaw is the worst tool in the shop for a long straight line in sheet material. If the cut is straight, a track saw is faster, cleaner and safer.
The jigsaw wins when the cut is curved, the material is sheet goods, the shape has an interior cut-out, and there is no power on site. That covers a huge share of real work.
How to Cut a Clean Curve in Plywood
Scribe the line and cut on the waste side. A scribed line is the reference; the saw blade is roughly the thickness of the line. Always cut on the waste side so your good edge lands on the line.
Back the workpiece. A scrap of the same thickness underneath prevents blowout on the exit face. Masking tape on the top face reduces tear-out further.
Fit the right blade. Fine tooth, T-shank, clean cutting for wood. Nothing else matters as much.
Set the orbital switch to 0. Raise it only if you are removing waste in the middle of a shape, never for the line itself.
Start from a hole for interior cut-outs. Drill through the waste side, plunge or drop the blade into the hole, then follow the line. A soft no-load start saw makes this cleaner.
Cut relief slots into tight inside curves. Drill a series of holes or stop points around the tightest radius so the blade has somewhere to put the waste instead of binding and snapping.
Feed slowly through the radius. Constant moderate pressure, no pushing. Let the blade cut its own kerf.
Keep the shoe flat and fully supported. If the waste side drops away as you approach the end of the cut, support it.
Sand the edge in ascending grits. 120, then 180, then 220. A jigsaw edge is never truly finished straight from the cut.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are jigsaws good for cutting curves?
Yes. A jigsaw is the only common handheld saw that can turn a corner, follow a scribed line and plunge into the middle of a sheet for an interior cut-out. It cuts clean curves when you use a fine-tooth blade, set orbital action to 0 or 1, and feed slowly. It is the wrong tool for repeated accurate curves in thick hardwood, where a bandsaw is faster and straighter.
What is the best jigsaw blade to cut curves?
For tight scroll radii, use a Bosch T119AO or T101AO. For general curves in plywood and softwood, the Bosch T101B is the safest default. Bosch T144D is a fast roughing blade for waste removal, T118A is for sheet metal, and T101BR cuts on the downstroke for laminate. Finer teeth cut slower but hold a tighter radius and leave a cleaner edge.
What is the best cordless jigsaw on the market?
The DEWALT DCS334B is the best all-round cordless jigsaw for curved cuts because it is light at 4.2 pounds, runs a brushless motor, and holds a scribed line at low speed. The DEWALT DCS335B is the best for tight curves thanks to its barrel grip, and the Makita XVJ03Z is the best for finish quality on visible faces.
Why doesn’t my jigsaw cut straight?
The usual causes in order are a dull or wrong blade, a feed rate that is too fast, an orbital setting that is too aggressive for the material, a workpiece that is not fully supported, and a base plate that is not flat. Blade deflection on tight inside curves and a low battery also cause drift. Fix the blade, set orbital to 0 and slow down through the radius first.
Do I need a barrel grip jigsaw for curves?
Not always, but it is the traditional choice for tight inside curves and scrollwork. A barrel grip puts your hand in line with the blade, lowers the centre of gravity and gives you a clear sight line to the cut as the line turns. For wide sweeping curves, plunge cut-outs and overhead work, a compact top handle or a D-handle saw is often more comfortable.
Our Final Verdict on the Best Cordless Jigsaws for Curved Cuts
After putting ten saws through the same scribed radius cut, the DEWALT DCS334B is the pick for most people. It carries a 4.2 pound listed weight, it has the largest owner review base on this platform at 4.8 stars across 9,623 reviews, and the 4-position orbital action plus variable speed dial give you everything a curve needs and nothing you have to fight.
Pick the DEWALT DCS335B instead if tight inside curves and scrollwork are the reason you are buying a jigsaw, because the barrel grip changes how the saw tracks a small radius more than any motor spec does. Pick the Makita XVJ03Z when the cut will be seen, and the Makita DJV184Z when you are cutting overhead or on site.
Whatever you choose, buy a Bosch T101B or T101AO the same day, set the orbital switch to 0, and go slower than you think you need to on the radius. The best cordless jigsaws for curved cuts all behave the same way in your hands: the blade decides the result, and the operator decides the speed.